Friday, 3 December 2010

A Day in Hanoi

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The kids did not want to leave the aircraft carrier and all the jetfighters yesterday but I was able to convince them somehow to come for a little visit to Hanoi. The day before, we stayed "home" mostly, just playing, catching up on "admin", doing laundry etc. We did go for a walk to the Donkey Doughnut, a cafe owned by our hostess, Luyen, for lunch.

But a short visit out to see such a beautiful city was in order. Hanoi is one of Bella's favourite cities so I wanted to explore it a bit. A tiny white taxi picked us up and took us to the Puppet Theatre where most performances were sold out. The kids said it looked too scarey and they did not want to go anyway so we took a brief look into the old quarter and bought a few backpacks that the kids find comfortable to wear. They looked like little troupers and it was so funny watching Frunty and Pit scoot around parked motorbikes and other items for sale on the sidewalks for the rest of the day.

We went over a red bridge to the Temple of Literature which was Vietnam's first university. It was lovely and the kids were enthralled about the story of the legendary, giant lake turtle and the sword. Afterwards we walked around the lake to try to find a restaurant called Koto. At one point, a persistent cyclist with carriage finally got our business and said he knew where Koto was. He did not. He cycled us all around Hanoi...I am sure we saw just about every neighbourhood and asked dozens of people the way. Finally I suggested asking a taxi driver but the cyclist did not understand, as per the entire trip, and thought we wanted to get into the taxi.

Luckily the taxi driver spoke English and I explained the story and showed the address and he told our cycle driver the way. I think the other people were just waving their arms around and did not really know where the restaurant was! Anyway, I guess the 5 min. trip actually took more than an hour and we were finally seated in a lovely restaurant called Koto which employs street children and teenagers. We had a delicious meal and then tried to walk around the area to find a bookshop called, Bookworm.

When we finally found it, after more waving of arms by locals who really did not know where the shop was...but guess what, it had moved! A lady with a food stall nearby handed us a bookmark with the new address on it so we jumped in a taxi and when we got to the new, and improved, Bookworm, we were pretty relieved. We spent many hours reading childrens' books and having a coffee and mango juices in the quiet, green courtyard. With the sun shining, it was a nice escape from the chaotic and dusty but very interesting city streets of Hanoi. I really like it here, Bella.

And best of all, Frunty and Pit said they had a great day. I was happy to hear that because this trip is for them too!

Christmas Calendars

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I grew up with Christmas calendars from Germany. From December 1st til the 24th, my brother and I would open a door on our calendars purchased from Keil's German butchershop. It was very exciting to discover the chocolate shapes hiding behind each door. I have continued the tradition with our children too. I thought that this year, we would not be able to find the calendars here in Vietnam but boy, was I wrong. The supermarket near our homestay is stocked almost entirely with German products and amazingly, they sell the calendars too. Our two little Christmas elves were so excited to be able to travel with their calendar through Vietnam and are taking turns opening doors: Frunty opens even numbers, Pit uneven. Viel SpaB and great cooperation, little guys! 'Tis the season to be jolly!

Thursday, 2 December 2010

Heaven and Earth

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We are couchsurfing with a Vietnamese-British family in Hanoi right now who lives in the most expensive, guarded part of the city called Chuputra. With fancy cars and private schools, beautiful mansions and parks, it is hard to believe we are in Vietnam at all. Around the corner is the Singapore International School, for example, and fancy shops and spas. It is a nice break from the chaos/pollution/traffic of the city and we are grateful for a beautiful home and a lovely family with whom to stay. On the walls of this home there are many photos, one of which is our host family with Jimmy Carter. Our host "father", Robin, works for Habitat for Humanity and our host "mother" has her own bakery just outside of this gated community. Their son, Nicholas, has laughed his head off watching our kids box in their living room! As Grampa would say, "heatscore!"

Last night our family hosted some friends and at one point in the evening, our hostess told me that the woman beside me was Le Ly Hapslip, the author of Heaven and Earth and other novels. The authoress turned to me and asked if I had read her book or seen the Oliver Stone movie. My reply, "not yet". I remembered David Suzuki asking Papa if he had read one of his books on a flight some years back.

Our hostess brings baked goods home which have not been sold and so you can imagine how excited our kids are to try Arnie-like doughnuts! Although we are still gluten/wheat/egg/dairy/soya free, I think exceptions can sometimes be made and in this case, our kids had a doughnut each after their dinner.

Le Ly turned to my children and said, "if you want to grow big and tall like Nicholas (the 17 year old teenage son of our host family) you had better eat more vegetables. If I were your mother, I would not let you eat those doughnuts because you haven't eaten enough vegetables." Earlier she commented on how Asians never eat plain rice. I responded that sometimes, I love to eat plain rice and I do and so do the kids. Especially after lots of different foods, it can be nice to just have something plain. That's my opinion. And anyway, I am not Asian...therefore, a weird alien.

Later I read about Le Ly's life and kind of excused her for her unwanted opinions. I cannot compare the torture of having to watch everything we eat and having to say "no" to our kids because of bad rashes and eczema/diarrhea/sleepless nights and unwelcome behavioural changes to what Le Ly has survived and I will not. However, we never know one's personal story and so passing judgment and making insensitive comments should be avoided, in my opinion. I don't care if you have had spring rolls with Oliver Stone or not. My kids were faced with a smorgasbord of very strange and new foods last night (maybe dog?) and ate a little of everything. For that, a freshly baked doughnut by our hostess was in order and that put a good taste in my mouth, thank you very much.

Greetings from Hanoi! Onwards and upwards!

View from breakfast cafe at Mini Saigon #5 Hotel

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Our first morning in Saigon!

Motorbikes in My Tho and Tubing on Phu Quoc Island

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My Kung Fu Pandas on Phu Quoc Island!

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Wednesday, 1 December 2010

Updates from Vietnam

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We have had an amazing 10 days or so in Vietnam. We left HCMC by private car instead of bus, Frunty's idea, to save time and arrived at our couchsurfing friend's home, Thien. She lives in My Tho in a home that is quite primitive but full of heart. We had to climb a steep ladder from a precariously perched stool in order to arrive in our room in the loft. Thien and her mother drove us around My Tho by motorbike, visiting the river, a snake farm and her teacher's home. It was Teacher's Day and we were warmly welcomed to steam peanuts and tea. When we got home, the kids fell asleep quickly and Papa and I tried snake wine with Thien's father.

The following day, the 5 of us drove to Can Tho to see the floating markets before arriving in Rach Gia on the coast. Thien said good bye and we had a lovely dinner by the river. The next morning, we took our boat over to Phu Quoc.

Highlights on the sunny island of Phu Quoc: our beach, Nhat Lan bungalow, seafood bonanzas bbqed on the beach, meeting new friends from France and Canada, fishing trip around the An Thoi islands, sunset rocks, and tubing on Bai Sao beach...white sands and clear, blue waters with great waves!

Yesterday we had an incredible, Italian lunch at the Park Hyatt back in HCMC and then Papa flew home and the three of us flew up to Hanoi to be warmly greeted by our couchsurfing family, Luyen, Robin and their 15 year old son, Nick. Photos to follow!